2648 – 2676 Queenstown

Yet another late start but this time due to breakfast at a cafe.

The walk out of Arrowtown was good. The day was bright and beautiful. It wasn’t until later when I crossed paths with the Belgians that I realised I had missed a sign and begun circumnavigating Lake Hayes.

That was pretty much it for walking. The point of the day was to go to Queenstown, buy a Kindle, and then go onto to Glenorcy to do the Routeburn before rejoining Te Araroa.

Hitching was easy. I walked past a ute pulling out of a sideboard and he asked me if I wanted a lift.

The Kindle mission failed. I had been told in Wanaka that Whitcolls in Queenstown sold them. Whitcolls said Noel Lemmings in Franktown sold them…..bugger.

Queenstown has changed a fair bit since I was last here 30 years ago. Development is everywhere, jets land and take off constantly, roads are packed with traffic, there is nearly always a helicopter in the sky, and people throng the streets. All in all, it’s a frigging nightmare. Couldn’t wait to escape.

We have decided to do the Routeburn and then rejoin Te Araroa so we are leaving Queenstown and continuing to Glenorcy. Glenorcy, however, is far nicer. Although I could be biased as I stayed in a pub. ’nuff said really.


  • Queenstown is very busy in peak season. Book ahead.
  • You have to go through Glenorcy anyway so you may as well just go there.
  • Don’t break your Kindle.

Queenstown Map

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2586 – 2600 Glendhu

Last night was fantastic. It ended at about 10:00pm with Martin (Austrian haemophilia researcher) showing us the king of all dances, the slow foxtrot.

I showed him my only dance move, which my grandmother taught me, and he instantly recognised it as the Charleston. I have only another 30 or so moves to go.

The path to Glendhu leads around the foreshore and seemed to take forever so by the time I got to Glendhu I was fully uninspired by walking.

There was one amusing bit where we noticed New Zealand takes pains to point out weird history. For instance, there is a sign that extols a butchery that fed 50 people and another that explains the Wellington tree. It seemed to be famous because it didn’t grow well?

To add to my malaise, rain was forecast for the next day so I threw my hands up into the air, gave into laziness, and stayed to wait it out. Silvin bravely carried on. Well, not really bravely as he was ahead of me when I decided so he didn’t know.


  • As you go through the Lake Country you realise the people who did really well were the bakers.
  • Poor motel people have the worst customers.
  • Glendhu Bay Motorcamp is a great place to stay.

Glendhu Map

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